Voyage to Bishop Rock Lighthouse

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The Isles of Scilly is said to hold the record for the highest concentration of shipwrecks in the world off its shores, with counts of up to 1,000 in total across their 100 miles of coastline. 

 

Marking the Islands’ most westerly danger, four miles out from their shores stands Bishop Rock Lighthouse. Prior to its construction, it was this outcrop of rock, measuring 45 metres long and 16 metres wide, that caused several naval tragedies throughout the 18th and 19th centuries.

Bishop Rock Lighthouse

During the construction of the Lighthouse, which took place between 1847 and 1858, workers would inhabit Bishop Rock and pilot gigs were employed to ferry workers, equipment and materials back and forth between the rock and the Islands. As you can imagine, this required great courage and technical skill as they tackled the unpredictable and often treacherous conditions of the surrounding sea.

The gigs would typically be loaded with construction materials, such as stone, cement, and equipment, which were essential for building the lighthouse. The rowers would then navigate their way through the waters, battling strong currents, swells, and sometimes harsh weather conditions to reach Bishop Rock.

 

Experience and knowledge of the local waters were crucial for ensuring safe passage, avoiding hazards, and making successful landings on the rocky outcrop.

 

Once at Bishop Rock, the gig rowers would unload the materials and equipment, assisting the construction workers in their efforts before returning to the Islands to gather more supplies or transport workers as needed, maintaining a constant flow of resources to support the construction process.

 

Fast forward 175 years later and in June 2023, a crew from Tresco Bryher Rowing Club paid a visit to the Bishop Rock Lighthouse.

 

The crew was made up of five of the Championship crew in Czar, alongside two from the B crew and Immy, who rows for Flushing & Mylor when she’s not on Bryher for the summer seasons.

  • Rowan (cox) farmer on Tresco
  • Jo (6) Bryher Campsite owner
  • Michelle (5) Tresco estate office
  • Emma (4) full time mum
  • Lorna (3) Tresco stores
  • Jess (2) Tresco Ruin supervisor
  • Sarah (1) Flying Boat club
  • Immy (pilot seat) Bryher campsite seasonal

The crew

For Jess, rowing to Bishop Rock was an opportunity she never thought she would get. Tales of boats heading out to see the magnificent lighthouse, rowing from Tresco in the Czar is something, that she tells us, some people can only dream of experiencing.

“The row itself was long, with tired muscles from the St Agnes race the day before, I was sceptical if I was actually going to be able to keep up. With a steady pace and 7 paddles in the water, the time flew by.”

Emma has been rowing for Tresco & Bryher for 11 years and has been coming to the islands for over 30. With Bishop Rock on her Isles of Scilly bucket list for some time, the conditions, tide or opportunity to take the trip never coincided to make it a reality. The flat, calm seas and fuelled with merriment from a Wednesday night race win, the crew decided that if the weather held the following day, they would go for it. Thursday came around and at 6:30, the conditions were perfect as the crew loaded the Czar to her full capacity.

As the Islands grew smaller into the distance, the crew were able to spot wildlife around them; seals, puffins and some dolphins.

“The row out was stunning, not another boat to be seen just puffins and the odd bemused looking seal breaking the water.” – Emma

The crew took turns swapping positions in the boat, each offered the chance to try the 7th paddle of the Czar right in the bow. Known as “the cut throat gig” for her extra seat, the crew filled the Czar to her full capacity of 7 rowers which in itself is pretty special.

“There was a fair bit of swapping around as most of us wanted a row in the pilot seat for this rare occasion. It was a firm consensus that the 7th seat was not one any of us would relish and only increased our admiration for those that filled it in rescues performed in terrible conditions.” – Emma

“Conditions were absolutely perfect, mirror like water all around, allowing so many great photos for us all to keep the memory of the row alive. Something I will never forget and am proud to say I have been able to accomplish.” – Jess

 

An hour and a half had passed by the time the crew were staring up at Bishop Rock Lighthouse, something that, for some, is only glimpsed at on the horizon. Despite being a couple of decades older than the 144 year old gig they were sitting in, the Lighthouse gave the impression of having always stood there in its place.
“Being so close, the size of it really brings home what an incredible feat of engineering it was and how difficult it must have been to undertake. It is a great testament to all those involved that it still stands as a guardian to this day.” – Emma
Having taken in the spectacle, the crew rowed home enjoying the peace of the setting sun soundtracked by the clicking of pins, whilst each crew member quietly relished the achievement.
“For me, the really special part was sitting in a gig of the same era as the huge lighthouse towering over us and feeling that connecting thread travelling back through time. It’s definitely one of those moments to treasure.” – Emma

Sunset on the way home

Images courtesy of Tresco & Bryher Rowing Club

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